台灣職人咖啡的歷史––Part II
Taiwan’s Artisan Coffee History––Part II

明星咖啡館, since 1949  攝影: Sil Ver Chang
http://www.taipeiwesttown.com/archives/2134

Part II––職人咖啡館的原型

戰後台北的咖啡館有兩種“風味”,一種是正宗的咖啡館,他們自己烘焙豆子,並提供甜點和食物;還有一些以變相經營知名的“日本咖啡館”,以及後來的 Dark Cafes, “深色咖啡館”,𥚃面有酒吧和兼作“女主人”的女服務員。 我們只提前者,因為咖啡不是日本咖啡館的主要賣點。

咖啡屋的女給(廖明睿提供)(翻攝自薰風第12期)https://bit.ly/3v2ygxF

戰後咖啡館的顧客往往是來自藝術界或上流社會的一部分。 大多數台灣人,特別是來自大陸的台灣居民只喝茶不喝咖啡。不僅咖啡飲用與日本的殖民文化和酒吧女招待的風氣有關連,蔣介石政府對進口咖啡徵收了100%的關稅,關稅持續了數十年,使價格更加昂貴。明星咖啡館最初是由俄羅斯難民於1920年在上海開設的,1949年與蔣介石政府一起遷往台北。

ASTORIA CAFÉ | 明星西點, since 1949
攝影: Sil Ver Chang

ASTORIA CAFÉ | 明星咖啡館
攝影: Samil Kuo

Astoria(明星咖啡館)以100多年的家庭食譜為基礎,專長於沖煮咖啡和製作俄羅斯甜點。在1950年代,它成為作家,藝術家和詩人的聚會場所。儘管經歷了艱難的時期,包括一場毀滅性的大火和長時間的停業,但明星咖啡館到今天2020年代仍存在,就像70年前一樣。我們可以將明星視為一家職人咖啡館流行之前,以卓越的食品和咖啡並重為基礎的咖啡廳。

蜂大咖啡店於1956年開業。除了提供包括古巴產地在內的全球咖啡外,它還為台北市引進冰咖啡而聞名。 儘管現代的咖啡烘焙機和咖啡機發明了,但蜂大仍然選擇使用其老式設備,並保留了1950年代的許多技術傳承和感覺,其中包括一些員工,今天某些員工的年紀看來可以追溯到1950年代。

FONG DA COFFEE | 蜂大咖啡
攝影: Samil Kuo
蜂大著名的冰滴咖啡  Fong Da’s famous ice drip coffee
攝影: Samil Kuo

基於科學烘焙和沖煮方法的發展趨勢,讓蜂大在某種意義上成為“老派”的咖啡廳。 另一方面,它的“全手工”操作方法,烘焙了來自世界各地的小批量稀有和獨特的咖啡(例如古巴的“水晶山”),使其成為”第三波咖啡館”的原型。

Part III

Part II––Taipei’s Proto-Artisan Cafes

Postwar cafes in Taipei came in two “flavors”, legitimate cafes that roasted their own beans, and served dessert and food, and more sketchy/infamous “Japanese Cafes” and later “Dark Cafes” that frequently doubled as “hostess” bars. We focus on only the former, as coffee wasn’t the main selling point of the Japanese Cafes.

Patrons of post-war cafes tended to be part of the arts scene or high society. Most Taiwanese, especially those from the Mainland drank tea, not coffee. Not only was coffee drinking associated with Japanese colonial culture and the hostess bar scene, the Chian Kai-shek government imposed a 100% tariff on imported coffee that lasted for several decades, making it all the more expensive.

Astoria cafe was originally opened by Russian refugees in Shanghai in 1920, and relocated to Taipei in 1949 along with Chiang Kai-Shek. Astoria specializes in coffee and Russian desserts, based on 100 year-old family recipes. In the 1950s it became a hangout for writers, artists, and poets.

Despite going through hard times, including a devastating fire, and lengthy closure, Astoria has survived into the 2020s pretty much as it was 70 years ago. We can think of it as a pre-artisan cafe built around similar values of excellence in food and coffee.

Fong Da opened in 1956. In addition to serving coffee from around the globe, including Cuba, it’s renown for introducing iced coffee to Taipei. Despite the invention of modern coffee roasters and machines, Fong Da still chooses to use its vintage equipment and retains much of its 1950’s technology heritage and feel, including a staff that, in some cases appears to date from the 1950s.

Given the trend towards scientific roasting and brewing methods this makes Fong Da kind of the “anti-artisan” cafe in one sense. On the other hand, its “hands-on” approach, roasting small batches of rare and unique coffees from around the world (Cuban “Crystal Mountain” for example) gives it claim as a “proto” 3rd wave cafe.

 Read Part III

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