台灣職人咖啡的歷史––Part III
Taiwan’s Artisan Coffee History––Part III

圖片1– 80s 西門町
https://bit.ly/3dOpAoP

Part III––台灣經濟繁榮中的過渡期咖啡館

除了少數幾個獨立的咖啡館,以及前面提到的無處不在的“深色咖啡館”外,大多數台灣人只喝茶; 除了藝術,學術界和富人外,咖啡館尚未廣泛普及。 隨著1980年代半導體主導的經濟奇蹟的出現,這種情況開始發生變化,出現了專門為新型客戶-商人,提供服務到午夜之後的咖啡館。

 圖片2– OLD TREE COFFEE | 老樹咖啡
攝影: Samil Kuo

 

其中最重要的是老樹咖啡廳(Old Tree Cafe),營業至凌晨2:00,以容納商務人士。在互聯網之前蓬勃發展的眾多酒吧或音樂場所的聚會結束後,湧入來一杯咖啡,也許談成了一兩筆交易。這些地方是俱樂部式的,相當昂貴。

即使到了今天,老樹咖啡一杯的價格仍然在新台幣260-300元左右。 他們對手工職人咖啡的貢獻在於開發了自己的配方豆和烘焙方法,從而擴大了台灣特色咖啡的視野。

 圖片2– OLD TREE COFFEE | 老樹咖啡
攝影: Samil Kuo

 

蜜蜂咖啡(Mi Feng Cafe)是1970至80年代為商界人士服務的高端咖啡館的另一個例子。 這家親切友善,氣氛輕鬆,日資的特許經營店於1978年開業,在台北的鼎盛時期約有20家分店。

圖片4– MI FENG CAFE | 蜜蜂咖啡
攝影: Samil Kuo

圖片4– MI FENG CAFE | 蜜蜂咖啡
攝影: Samil Kuo

 

1980年代出現的另一個獨特形態是以餐點和咖啡知名的咖啡館。 王義咖啡就是一個很好的例子。店𥚃的牛肉麵好吃,儘管沒有作廣告只以口碑相傳,顧客至今仍慕名而來體驗。儘管在咖啡館裏提供牛肉麵,王義有世界各地的頂級咖啡可供選擇。這些咖啡都是由專業咖啡師用現代烘焙和沖煮設備準備的。 儘管他們的牛肉麵是當地人才知道的鄰里美食,但王義咖啡符合了我們聽到“職人咖啡”一詞的大多數元素。

圖片6– WANG YI COFFEE | 王義咖啡
Left-  https://bit.ly/3axNGCj
Right- https://bit.ly/3sTM1Nv

Part Four

Part II––Transitional Cafes from the Taiwanese Economic Boom

Aside from a few independent cafes, and the ubiquitous “Dark Cafes” mentioned above, most Taiwanese drank tea and coffee houses hadn’t yet achieved widespread popularity, aside from the arts and academic communities and the wealthy.

That began to change with the semiconductor-led economic miracle of the 1980s, which saw the rise of the specialty late-night coffee houses catering to a new type of customer—businessmen.

Foremost among this group was Old Tree Cafe, whose doors would remain open until 2:00 am to accommodate business people popping in for a cup of coffee and perhaps a deal or two after a night out at one of the many bars or musical venues that thrived in those pre-internet days.

These institutions were clubby and quite expensive. Even today, coffee costs about NT$300 at Old Tree. Their contribution to artisan coffee was the development their own proprietary blends and roasting methods, thereby expanding Taiwan’s specialty coffee horizons.

Mi Feng Cafe (蜜蜂咖啡) is another example of a high-end 1970s–1980s cafe that primarily catered to businessmen. This genteel, friendly, relaxed, Japanese-owned franchise opened in 1978, and had about 20 shops around Taipei at its height. One still survives today (in Da’an).

Another unique institution that arose in the 1980s were cafes that focused equally on food. Wang Yi is the perfect example. Initially a coffee bean wholesale store, It became known as a great place to eat beef noodle soup through word of mouth. Though it did no advertising, it became locally popular.

In addition to serving beef noodle soup, Wang Yi also served world-class coffee from across the globe prepared with modern roasting and brewing equipment by expert baristas. Though it was a neighborhood food joint known best by the locals, Wang Yi combined most of the elements we think of when hear the term “artisan coffee”. Today, customers still come to experience this unique combination.

Read Part Four

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